stitch, please! the VIVIEN VEST

let’s be real for a second, my wardrobe was having a bit of an existential crisis recently. it was screaming, "i’m chilly, but i also need my arms free to wrangle my little guy who doesn’t like to sit still for more than a millisecond."

enter the quilted vest. it’s the sartorial equivalent of a warm hug that doesn't smother you. but i didn’t want just any puffer. i wanted something with a little bit of spice, a little bit of shape, and a whole lot of "i made this so don't touch it with your cheeto fingers."

if you’re ready to in-vest in yourself, grab your rotary cutter. we’re making a hooded quilted vest, and honestly? stitch, please, this is going to be a masterpiece.

WHEN INSPIRATION STRIKES

the inspiration for this bad boy came from two very distinct places.

the blueprint: i have this favorite sweatshirt that is my go-to “too cold for a t-shirt, not cold enough for a jacket” staple. it pairs well with leggings or jeans, but the real magic is that curved, slightly dipped hemline—it’s the gold standard for a flattering fit. it covers the "assets" perfectly without the dreaded "potato sack" vibe. i knew i had to clone that exact silhouette for this vest so i could bring that same effortless energy into a wearable quilt.

the hood: this is non-negotiable. why? because i wear glasses. if you are a fellow four-eyed friend, you know the sheer terror of stepping out into a drizzle and immediately becoming functionally blind because your lenses fog up or get wet. and also, curly hair…hello frizz! a hood isn't just a fashion statement; it’s a must here in the pacific northwest.

THE CONSTRUCTION ZONE

okay, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. this project is a bit of a marathon, not a sprint, mostly because quilting takes time. but the payoff? chef’s kiss. the best part about this project is that it’s a bit of a "choose your own adventure" situation. you don't have to spend forty years hand-stitching every square if that’s not your vibe. you could:

1. thrift a quilt: give a pre-loved vintage find a second life (recycling is the new fast fashion).

2. buy a bedspread: high-speed, low-effort. just cut and go.

3. customize but keep it "simple, stupid": go with a wholecloth quilt for a clean, modern look.

4. go all in: create a custom quilt design meant to absolutely steal the show.

your vest, your rules. for the sake of this blog post, i went the custom wholecloth route, and here is how it went down:

THE GREAT CUT & QUILT

since i was working with a wholecloth design, i decided to be efficient (read: lazy in a smart way). i chose fabrics that were mostly non-directional, so i wasn't obsessing over pattern repeats and therefore i wasn't particular about how and where each piece was cut. to save myself from triple-cutting, i layered my outer fabric, batting, and lining before cutting. i used my rotary cutter on my large self-healing cutting mat to roughly cut out the pieces with a 1” border because quilting three layers together can cause some shrinkage.

i cut my two fronts, one back, and three hood pieces, and then the real fun began. i went with a medium-density, random straight-line quilting design. it gave the vest a lovely structure with a bit of flair.

once the quilting was done, the trimming began. i started with the back piece. it’s the biggest piece of real estate and sets the tone for the rest of the quilted piece. if you have a design you really want to accentuate then how you cut your back can make or break your piece, although that’s not true in this case since i made a wholecloth quilted vest.

for the pieces that were "cut on fold" or "cut 2," i used a little trick: i cut the first half with my paper template, then used that fabric piece as the template for the second half. it’s the best way to ensure the quilt lines and pattern symmetry match. pin the design where it mirrors so nothing shifts while cutting.

next, i did a quick basting stitch (1/8” seam allowance) around the edges of every piece. because garments are three-dimensional and full of curves, there’s a lot of "fabric wrangling" during assembly. basting locked those edges in so i didn't fray my hard work into oblivion.

FINAL PREPARATIONS

before the real assembly, i marked my notches along the curves of the hood and neckline with my favorite washable fabric pen.

i also prepped my own double-fold bias tape by cutting 2” strips of fabric and ironing them in half on my wool pressing pad and then folding in the edges and ironing again. you could also invest in a bias tape maker kit to save yourself a bit of time and spare your fingers from the hot iron.

to make my hanging loop, i cut a 4” section of binding and stitched (1/16” seam allowance) along both edges to make a flat strip of fabric that is now 4 layers thick. i used the triple straight stitch for this piece so the stitches don't break from the weight of the finished vest hanging by its loop.

i ironed two 90° folds about 1.25" apart so it would lay flat, then tacked it down to the center of the neckline on the back piece. i also added a cheeky kylie and the machine label right below it. the side seams are another great spot to add custom labels to your quilted vests.

ASSEMBLY! aka THE MOMENT OF TRUTH

this is where all that tedious prep work started to pay off. i assembled the body first, aligning the fronts to the back at the shoulders and side seams and stitching with a 3/8” seam allowance. i didn’t bother to triple stitch here because the binding adds additional layers of stitching to strengthen the seams.

next was the hood. i used the notches i marked earlier to place my first two pins. i pinned the center and then worked my way out, repeating the process of pinning the ‘center’ between two pins until i had a sufficient amount of pins. for curves you kind of want to overdo it with the pins.

the hood took a bit of wrangling with the pins and machine to set nicely, but my best piece of advice would be to go slow around those curves, pausing and readjusting your fabric as needed to avoid any puckers.

once the body and hood were assembled, i added binding to all my inside seams: the sides, the shoulders, the hood center strip. this was a two-step process.

i attached my double-fold bias tape to the front of the body and the sides of the hood center using a 1/2” seam allowance (i followed the crease from the iron).

then i folded the binding over to conceal the raw edges, secured it with wonder clips, and stitched about 1/16” along the edge with my edge stitch foot. it didn’t matter what the underside looked like so i didn't worry about perfect stitches underneath.

next, i got out my iron and pressed my seams flat, keeping the neat, finished side visible. don't skip the ironing here, you want those seams to lie flatter than a pancake under a steamroller. for this, i used my absolute favorite little powerhouse, the oliso mini project iron. don't let its cute size fool you; this thing gets hotter than a jalapeño in a sauna. it’s perfect for getting into those tight curves around the hood.

 

with flat seams i stitched the opposite side down, using that 1/16” seam allowance. go slow here and use your edgestitch foot, because this stitch line will be visible from the outside of the vest and it runs parallel to your seams.

once i had all my seams ironed and stitched flat, i basted across the seams at the edge and trimmed off the excess. i also smoothed out the curve at the bottom hemline on one side and then folded the vest in half to match the trim on the other side seam.

before attaching the hood to the body i added edge binding to the arm holes. it’s much easier to sew these on when the hood is not yet attached. i prefer to machine stitch my binding to the outside face of the arm hole and then hand stitch the inside down.

then it was time to attach the hood to the body. i used the notches to align critical points along the neck line and then worked my way through pinning the center points repeatedly. this area was highly susceptible to puckering so i wasn’t shy with those pins. i also stopped a few times to adjust my fabric along the way.

i added binding to the body side of the neckline and ironed it flat towards the hood, then stitched both sides down. it was easier to get a clean stitch line this way and it doesn’t impede on the hanging loop.

the last step was binding the outer edge of the vest. just like the armholes, i machine-sewed the binding to the outside and hand-stitched it on the inside.

OH, SNAP!

for the closure i used four 12.5mm snap buttons. they were easy to install and worked well with the quilt sandwich style of the vest. you could opt for traditional buttons, or even venture into the land of zippers, but i won't cover that here.

to get them equally spaced, i used the washable fabric pen to mark my top and bottom buttons 1/2” in from the edge, down from the hood seam, and up from the bottom hemline. then i calculated 3 equal spaces and marked the last two button locations.

i used the marked side to mark the second side and then it was time to punch those holes, and secure those snap buttons in place.

the snap buttons gave it a sporty, professional vibe. and let me tell you, using a proper snap button press to install them is the most deeply satisfying feeling in the world. at the time i started this vest, i hadn’t yet discovered the pure joy of a press, so i used the hammer method with the tools included in my snap button kit. however, if you envision many snap buttons in your future then i highly recommend a snap button press.

HER MAJESTY

i present to you the final product. she is beauty, she is grace, she is the VIVIEN VEST!

 

THE VIVIEN GALLERY: ONCE YOU POP, THE STITCHING DON'T STOP

i’ll be honest with you: making just one VIVIEN VEST is like trying to eat just one potato chip. it’s physically impossible. once you realize how quickly these come together (and how many "emotional support" quilts are sitting in thrift stores waiting for a makeover), you’ll be sew obsessed.

serious question though. you’ve birthed this beautiful garment. now, where are you taking her? the beauty of the quilted vest is its versatility. it’s the duct tape of fashion—it works everywhere.

the "sporty spice": headed to a chilly fall football game or tailgate? throw this over a thermal, jeans, and boots. you'll be the warmest snack in the parking lot.

the "downtown cool": pair it with high-waisted leggings, a chunky knit sweater, and sleek sneakers for a coffee date or shopping trip with pals. the hood adds instant street cred.

the "dog walker": it’s 6 am, it’s drizzling, and the dog needs to go out. throw this on over your pajamas. the glasses stay dry, your core stays warm, and nobody at the dog park needs to know you aren't wearing a bra.

the "indoor cat": sometimes i just wear it around the house when the heating bill is giving me anxiety. it’s basically a socially acceptable blanket you can wear.

these are a few other versions of VIVIEN i’ve brought into the world over the years. warning: viewing these may cause an immediate urge to go raid your fabric stash.

ARE YOU READY TO JOIN THE VESTIE SQUAD?

there you have it—the full breakdown of the VIVIEN VEST. whether you’re a seasoned quilter or a "cut-and-pray" beginner, this project is the perfect way to level up your wardrobe with something that is actually functional (and glasses-friendly!).

if you make your own VIVIEN, please tag me on instagram! i want to see your fabric choices, your sassy labels, and your "i actually finished a project" victory dances.

happy sewing, you talented stitch!

 

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